Imagine my shock upon discovering not only did this strain of biker culture still exist, but that I existed within it.
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Obviously I was aware of biker culture, but somehow I’d decided that these tropes - choppers, leather jackets, the whole deal - were all but contentless by now, mere tchotchkes on the wall in the T.G.I. I thought I was just purchasing a mode of transportation - a way to get around without riding the train - but after some time on the street with other riders, I started to suspect I’d signed up for a lot more. Like many other Americans, I bought my first motorcycle during the pandemic. This year already, the media was warning of the four bikers of the apocalypse. According to research published in The Southern Economic Journal, the 2020 Sturgis Rally - “the largest public gathering to take place in the country since the start of the Covid-19 pandemic” - was responsible for between 115,283 and 266,796 new Covid cases nationwide, generating up to an estimated $8.7 billion in health care costs. The mood of rebellion felt doubly high in light of the whole pandemic situation. Here, middle-aged riders of $20,000 American-made motorcycles gather for 10 days of controlled rebellion: to wander paved roads, buy Harley merchandise and rage against the reality of their milieu’s waning cultural relevance. These tensions reconcile in all sorts of biker cultures - the urban dirt biker, the cafe-racing yuppie - but Sturgis is unique in selling the fantasy of a subculture based on the dominant one. Since the first Harley-Davidson was sold, in 1903, the motorcycle in America has intertwined itself with the two types of liberty: freedom to (wander, skip town, enjoy life), and freedom from (the mainstream, the desk job, social mores). Everyone was in the outlaw spirit, preparing to hit the open road in the lawless territory where Wild Bill Hickok was shot, a state with no adult helmet laws. She spoke in a tone of mischief, not confrontation - the “Oh, you’re bad!” of the third margarita. “I better not say that too loud,” she said louder. “I wonder if I should put on my Trump hat,” one wife said. Behind me, two couples claimed all of Row 20 - husbands in the windows, wives on the aisle - passing a bag of candy back and forth.
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“I’ll sit with your husband.”įrom my seat in Row 19, the cabin appeared as a series of horizons each with its own dim setting sun: the Bic-bald dome in noise-canceling headphones, or the mesh-backed baseball cap with the little semicircle of salt-and-pepper thatching sticking out the back. “Wanna switch?” said one wife to the other. As I loaded my bag into the overhead bin, two couples noticed they were in each other’s seats. The husbands checked weather apps on their phones. The wives, in expensive flip-flops and cheap leggings, discussed past trips to Caribbean resorts. Economy round trip cost about $700, and boarding had that hale, key-party-ish vibe of flights where everyone is on vacation. United Flight 3533 to Rapid City, S.D., was nearly 100 percent white couples of retirement age. It goes without saying that there aren’t T-shirts for people who fly in from Newark and rent a bike. There is no one true answer to this question, but there are a lot of slogans making one case or another. One subcurrent at Sturgis, as I would soon discover, is rating who is and is not a real biker: trailers, renters, three-wheeling “trikers,” members of outlaw gangs, women. The most esteemed way to arrive at America’s legendary motorcycle rally is by riding there, from your house, on your own bike, an attitude evinced by the glut of merchandise proclaiming: I RODE MINE STURGIS ’21. Trailering is a common way to get to Sturgis, S.D., though it is generally considered the least respectable. “NO TRAILER BASHING!” the rule proclaimed. Two were apolitical in ways that felt extremely political: “NO COVID COMMENTS” and “ABSOLUTELY NO POLITICS … YOU WILL BE DELETED!” The last concerned what is known as “trailering,” or towing your motorcycle out to Sturgis.
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Seven addressed matters of basic netiquette - respect, courtesy, bullying, privacy, solicitation (both kinds). In order to join one of the private Facebook groups for the 81st annual Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, I had to agree to 10 rules.
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